If you live in warmer place, you may grow Amaryllis bulbs outdoors in the garden as long as there is absolutely no chance of even a light frost. They require well-draining, neutral pH soil, at least six hours of bright filtered sunlight and good air circulation. In the late fall, plant the bulbs with the neck of the bulb at, or just a little higher, than the soil level, spaced 12″ to 16″ apart. Water lightly after planting. If it hasn’t rained, wait until green top growth appears to lightly water the bed. If the surface of the bed has dried out and rain is infrequent, lightly water. Top dress the Amaryllis plantings with a monthly application of a 10-10-10 fertilizer after foliage appears. Amaryllis bulbs should not be planted in areas with in-ground irrigation systems. From July through October, do not supplement rainfall with watering. Cut back and remove any yellow or dead foliage.
Pot individual bulbs in well-draining, cozy pots in sterile, neutral pH potting soil with at least the top quarter or third of the bulb above the surface of the soil to avoid water collection in the sprout. A cozy pot means that there shouldn’t be much more than about an inch of space between the bulb and the pot. Amaryllis flower better when their roots are pot bound. Tamp down the soil lightly. Give the bulb one drink of room temperature water around the base of the bulb. Place the pot in direct sunlight at room temperature with good air circulation and normal to low humidity. Avoid placing the pot in an area with cold drafts. Do not water again until green growth appears. Over-watering could inhibit root and plant growth.
Once the Amaryllis starts to grow, water evenly and consistently around the base of the bulb at soil level (never mist). Make sure to discard any collected water in the pot saucer to avoid root or bulb rot. Brighter sunlight creates the best coloration and a more proportionate plant. Most varieties yield two, and sometimes even three, flowering stems in succession. Sword-like foliage may appear before, during or after flowering. You may need to install structural support for the huge flowering stems. We like to make pot-size teepees from twisted twigs and branches we’ve collected in the woods to secure the Amaryllis stem’s growth and help to keep it balanced in its pot. You may also top dress pots with stones to weigh down the pot to prevent it from tipping over when the plant is in full bloom. If they grow too tall, you may cut them: Amaryllis are among the best, most long-lasting of cut flowers. After the flowers have faded, cut them off to prevent unnecessary seed formation, but leave the stalk in place to die back naturally. It helps to feed the bulb.
If you want to display more than one Amaryllis together, we suggest sinking individual pots at the same rate of growth in a basket or cachepot. The pots can be covered with green Spanish moss or preserved reindeer moss. It looks beautiful, and the Amaryllis may still be grown in cozy pots that is best for them from a horticultural perspective.
Truth be told, we’re kind of old-fashioned, and don’t prefer to grow Amaryllis in pebbles and water, but it can be done. If you intend to do this, please consider how tall Amaryllis stems stretch, and how heavy their flowers become. Choose a sturdy container that is more like a big glass hurricane candle cylinder than a vase (no pedestal or foot). Nothing too fragile or tippy. The general method is to place about four inches of river stones in the bottom of the cylinder and to place the Amaryllis bulb, roots down, on top of the stones. Then, carefully fill river stones in around the bulb and over the bulb, leaving the top quarter of the bulb uncovered. Very carefully add water, making sure that no water collects in the sprout, or nose, of the bulb. Only fill the cylinder with two or three inches of water because the water cannot touch the root base of the bulb or it will rot. You must keep the water level even and consistent and must never allow the roots to dry out. The water can become funky as old roots decompose. Amaryllis grown in water are not suitable for more than one season of growth and should be discarded after blooming.
Once you receive your order, open the exterior carton and interior boxes to give the bulbs air ventilation. Gently inspect the bulbs. The healthy outer skin of Amaryllis bulbs may appear papery, shriveled or rust-brown from having been washed and dried after harvest. It’s all good, all natural. Bulbs are sized when they are harvested. They shrink naturally as they dry, and plump up again once potted and rehydrated. Each variety has a varied amount of existing roots.
Keep in mind that top size flowering bulbs are always smaller than top size Dutch Hippeastrum bulbs. They have been hybridized to create well-proportioned plants and large flowers from smaller bulbs (better crop yields and lower shipping charges for the boat ride half way around the world from South Africa). Bulb circumference size is measured around the widest girth of the bulb (not from left to right).
FOR LOCAL ORDERS:
Order cut-off time is every Saturdays 12noon.
Confirmed Order despatched: Every Mondays and Tuesdays
Delivery is within 2 days time for Metro Manila and 2-3 days time for Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao areas. Always ask for the Courier Tracking Number of confirmed despatched for follow-ups.
Delivery Lead time: 15 -30 days
There is a wealth of conflicting information when it comes to the popular Amaryllis flower. Such confusion is what comes from letting gardeners talk among themselves without supervision.
So what is an amaryllis, really? What most people mean when they say Amaryllis is actually Hippeastrum. This is the botanical name for the various species and hybrids that fill the market around Christmas time. If you want to be botanically correct, call them Hippeastrum, otherwise continue to use Amaryllis.
Botanically speaking, the only amaryllis is Amaryllis Belladonna from South Africa. It is a beautiful flower hardy to zones 8+ and common in California. They are also called pink “Naked Ladies”. Occasionally the white form is available, and very rarely there is also a red form which resulted from hybrid crosses with Brunsvigia (another South African native bulb). Often you hear that Hippeastrum (every-day Amaryllis) are from South Africa. This is the result of confused information with Amaryllis Belladonna. Hippeastrum species originated from across Central and South America.
In the last 150 years, these species have been crossed into the beautiful hybrids you find today. In addition to these Genus (Amaryllis and Hippeastrum) there is a multitude of flowers which are part of the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). These are typically beautiful, reliable, and pest resistant garden flowers. They include: Amaryllis, Hippeastrum, Crinum, Nerine, Zephyranthes (rain lilies), Habranthus, Lycoris (spider lilies), Narcissus (daffodils), Sternbergia, Clivia, Sprekelia, Hymenocallis, Cyrtanthus, Scadoxis, Galanthus (snow drops), Worsleya and more.